So, you’ve finished printing your latest 3D project, and now it’s time to put the pieces together. But what’s the best glue for 3d printing? It can be a bit confusing with all the options out there. Whether you’re working with PLA, ABS, or something else, getting a good bond is important. We’ve looked at some popular choices to help you figure out what works best for your needs, so your prints stay stuck together.
Key Takeaways
- Cyanoacrylate (CA) gel, or super glue, is a solid all-around choice for most 3D prints because it’s easy to use and dries fast.
- For projects needing maximum strength, like parts that will take a beating, a two-part epoxy creates a really tough, durable bond.
- Weld-On 16 is a solvent-based adhesive that actually melts and fuses PLA together, making for super strong connections, but it can be messy.
- 3D Gloop! is specifically made for 3D prints and works well for bonding different plastics like PLA, ABS, and PETG, and can even help with print bed adhesion.
- Using baking soda with CA glue can speed up the curing and add strength, acting like a filler to reinforce the joint.
1. Cyanoacrylate Gel
When you need to stick two 3D printed pieces together fast, cyanoacrylate gel, or super glue, is often the go-to. It’s super popular because it works quickly and creates a pretty strong bond for most PLA prints. The gel form is a big plus; it doesn’t run all over the place like thinner glues, which means you have more control when you’re applying it. This makes it great for small parts or when you need to be really precise. Just a little bit goes a long way.
The real magic happens when the moisture in the air or on the surface of your print reacts with the cyanoacrylate. This causes it to harden up in seconds, forming a solid bond. It’s almost instant, which is awesome if you’re impatient like me. However, because it sets so fast, you really need to have your parts lined up perfectly before you put them together. There’s not much wiggle room once the glue makes contact.
Here’s a quick rundown of what to expect:
- Speed: Cures in seconds, so you can move on quickly.
- Strength: Forms a solid, rigid bond.
- Control: Gel formula stays put, making application easier.
- Limitations: The bond can be brittle and might crack if the part is dropped or bent. It’s also easy to get on your fingers, so wearing gloves is a good idea.
If you’re working on a larger project or just want to speed things up even more, you might want to look into a CA activator. It helps the glue set almost instantly. Just remember, while it’s great for many things, if your print needs to be flexible, super glue might not be the best fit because it can make the area stiff and prone to breaking.
2. Two-Part Epoxy
When you need a bond that can really take a beating, two-part epoxy is your go-to. This stuff is seriously strong, way stronger than super glue for most 3D printing materials. It works by mixing two different chemicals, a resin and a hardener, which then react to form a super tough bond. It’s perfect for functional parts that will see a lot of action or need to hold up under stress. Think of parts for machines, tools, or anything that might get dropped or bumped.
Here’s the lowdown on using it:
- Preparation is Key: Always start by cleaning and scuffing up the surfaces you want to join. A little sandpaper action and a wipe-down with isopropyl alcohol go a long way. This gives the epoxy something to really grab onto.
- Mixing Matters: Follow the instructions on the epoxy package precisely. Mix the resin and hardener in the correct ratio. Too much of one or the other can mess up the cure and weaken the bond.
- Application: Apply a thin, even layer to one or both surfaces. Don’t go overboard; too much epoxy can squeeze out and make a mess, and it’s harder to clean up than you might think.
- Clamping and Curing: You’ll need to hold the parts together while the epoxy cures. Clamps, tape, or even rubber bands can work. Be patient! While it sets up relatively quickly, it can take up to 24 hours to reach its full strength. Don’t rush it.
Epoxy is also great because you can sand it, drill it, and paint it once it’s fully cured. This makes it ideal for projects where you want a really clean, professional finish. If you’re working with materials that need that extra durability, like some advanced resins such as Siraya Tech Blu, epoxy is definitely worth considering.
3. Weld-On 16
Weld-On 16 is a bit different from your typical super glue. It’s a solvent-based adhesive, which means it actually works by slightly dissolving the surfaces of the plastic parts you’re trying to join. Then, as the solvent evaporates, the plastic re-hardens, effectively welding the pieces together. This creates a really strong, almost seamless bond, which is fantastic for parts that need to hold up under some stress or for structural components. It’s especially good for PLA prints.
When you’re using it, you’ll want to be careful because Weld-On 16 is quite fluid. It can easily drip and make a mess if you’re not precise. Using a small dropper or a bottle with a narrow tip really helps control where it goes. It also has a noticeable smell, so make sure you’re working in a well-ventilated area. A little goes a long way, and it’s a good idea to test it on a scrap piece first, especially if you’re working with delicate parts, as it can slightly affect the surface finish.
Here’s a quick rundown of what to expect:
- Bonding Strength: Creates a very strong, weld-like bond.
- Application: Solvent-based, requires careful application to avoid drips.
- Curing Time: Needs patience, often 24 hours for full strength.
- Ventilation: Important due to solvent fumes.
Because it creates such a robust connection, Weld-On 16 is a top choice for functional prints that need to be durable. It’s a reliable solution for better print adhesion when you need your parts to stay together.
4. 3D Gloop!
When you need a bond that’s seriously tough, 3D Gloop! is a name that keeps popping up. This stuff is designed specifically for 3D printed plastics like PLA, ABS, and PETG. It works by chemically fusing the parts together, and honestly, the bond it creates is incredibly strong. I’ve heard stories of people trying to break prints joined with 3D Gloop!, and the plastic itself breaks before the glue seam does. That’s some serious holding power.
One of the cool things about 3D Gloop! is its dual purpose. Not only is it fantastic for sticking your printed parts together after the fact, but it can also help with print adhesion to your build plate. So, if you’re having issues with prints lifting or warping, a thin layer of 3D Gloop! might be just the ticket to keep things stuck down.
Here’s a quick rundown of how to get the best results:
- Prep your print: For the smoothest finish, give your parts a light sanding, maybe up to 200 grit, before you apply the Gloop!.
- Apply thinly: Brush on a thin layer. You don’t need a ton of it.
- Let it work: It hardens pretty quickly, but give it a few minutes to fully cure.
- Smooth it out: After it dries, another light sanding can help smooth out any rough spots, making it perfect for painting.
If you need extra strength, you can even apply multiple coats. Just be sure to wait about 10 minutes between each layer. It’s not really meant for sticking prints to the build plate, though – that’s a different game. But for joining pieces? 3D Gloop! is a real contender.
5. CA Activator
Sometimes, you just need things to stick together now. That’s where CA activators come in. Think of them as a turbo boost for your super glue. You know how CA glue (cyanoacrylate) takes a few seconds to set, and you have to hold the pieces together? Well, an activator spray cuts that time down to almost nothing. You spray it on, put the pieces together, and bam, they’re bonded.
This is super handy for bigger projects where holding parts in place for minutes on end would be a real pain. It’s also great if you’re a bit impatient, like me sometimes. Just be aware that it cures the glue really fast, so you get pretty much zero wiggle room for adjustments. Make sure your parts are lined up perfectly before you spray. It’s a clear, fast-drying plastic glue with an activator spray, designed for DIY plastic repairs and works on various plastic types. You can find these sets online, often marketed as a CA super glue set.
Using an activator is pretty straightforward:
- Apply your CA glue to one of the surfaces you want to join.
- Quickly spray a light mist of the activator onto the other surface.
- Press the two parts together firmly and hold for just a few seconds.
It’s a simple trick that can save you a lot of time and frustration, especially when you’re working on larger assemblies or just want to speed up your workflow.
6. Baking Soda
So, you’ve got a gap or a seam in your 3D print that just won’t quit? Sometimes, the best solutions are the simplest, and that’s where baking soda comes in. It’s not really a glue on its own, but when you mix it with a super glue, like cyanoacrylate, it becomes a surprisingly effective filler.
Think of it like this: the super glue acts as the binder, and the baking soda is the bulk. You just put a little super glue in the gap, sprinkle some baking soda on top, and then add another drop of glue. It hardens up almost instantly, creating a solid little patch. This trick is fantastic for filling small imperfections or reinforcing weak spots.
It’s a pretty common technique for post-processing prints, especially if you’re aiming for a really smooth finish before painting. You can build up layers of this mixture to fill larger gaps, though it can get a bit crumbly if you use too much baking soda. It’s definitely a good idea to practice on a scrap piece first to get the hang of the ratio. You can find more tips on fixing visible seams or gaps in prints in this guide.
7. Gorilla Super Glue Gel
Gorilla Super Glue Gel is a go-to for many 3D printing enthusiasts, and for good reason. It’s a type of cyanoacrylate, often just called super glue, but in a gel form. This makes it way easier to control than the runny liquid kind. You know, the kind that always seems to drip everywhere and stick your fingers together? Yeah, that one.
This gel formula is fantastic because it stays put where you apply it, which is a big deal when you’re trying to line up small or intricate parts. It doesn’t run down the sides of your print, so you get a cleaner bond. Plus, it dries pretty clear, so the seam you create is usually not very noticeable.
It works pretty fast, usually setting in seconds, which is great if you’re in a hurry. Just make sure your pieces are lined up exactly how you want them before you press them together, because once it grabs, it’s pretty much permanent. You’ll want to hold the pieces firmly for about a minute while it sets up.
Here’s a quick rundown of what makes it a solid choice:
- Easy Application: The gel consistency means less mess and more control.
- Fast Bonding: Sets quickly, saving you time on your projects.
- Strong Hold: Creates a reliable bond for most PLA, ABS, and PETG prints.
- Minimal Drip: Stays where you put it, reducing unwanted drips.
Keep in mind that while it’s strong, the bond can be a bit brittle. If your project involves parts that will bend or take a lot of impact, you might want to consider something else, like a two-part epoxy. Also, work in a well-ventilated spot because the fumes can sometimes leave a white residue, called blooming, on your print. It’s not harmful, just looks a bit dusty.
8. PLA “Glue Sticks”
So, you’ve got your 3D printed parts, and you need to stick them together. Ever thought about using a hot glue gun, but with PLA filament instead of a regular glue stick? It sounds a bit out there, but it’s a technique some makers use, especially when they want the bond to be completely hidden.
The idea is to apply molten PLA from the inside of the joint, so the outside stays looking super clean. It’s kind of like using a regular glue stick, but you’re melting your actual print material. You heat up PLA filament in a hot glue gun and then carefully apply it to the inside edges where your two parts meet. Once it cools, you’ve got a connection that’s pretty much invisible from the outside.
However, this method isn’t exactly straightforward. Standard hot glue guns don’t always get hot enough to melt PLA properly, and the smooth filament can slip right through the gun’s feed mechanism. To make it work, you might need to:
- Lightly sand the PLA filament to give the gun something to grip.
- Consider using a high-temperature hot glue gun, though these are less common.
- Be prepared for a bit of a mess; it can be tricky to get a neat bond this way.
This "PLA glue stick" approach is best for parts that won’t be under much stress. If you need a really strong connection, especially for functional prints, you’ll probably want to look at other options like cyanoacrylate glue or epoxy. It’s a neat trick for aesthetics, but not always the most robust solution.
9. Friction Welding
Friction welding is a pretty neat trick for sticking 3D printed bits together, especially if you’re building cosplay stuff or costumes. The idea is to get the edges of the two pieces just warm enough to melt a little, then press them together. It makes a pretty solid join, and it helps stop paint or filler from cracking later on.
What’s cool is you can even use leftover filament or bits from failed prints as filler. Just melt them along the seam, and it adds extra strength. This works okay with regular PLA, but it’s even better with Tough PLA.
Now, it’s not going to make an unbreakable bond, mind you. It’s best for things that won’t get yanked around too much. But for most prop work, it’s a simple and effective way to get a strong, smooth connection.
- Always wear eye protection when you’re messing with heat and plastic.
- Use leftover filament as filler for a stronger bond.
- Works best on PLA and Tough PLA filaments.
- Not ideal for parts that will experience a lot of stress.
10. Soldering Iron
So, you’ve got two pieces of 3D print that need to become one, and you’re looking for a way to really fuse them together? A soldering iron, or even a wood burner, can actually do the trick. It’s a bit like plastic welding, but you’re using a tool you might already have lying around.
The basic idea is to melt the plastic along the edges where the two parts meet. You can even add extra filament – the same kind you used to print the parts – to act as a filler. Just keep working the melted plastic together until it feels solid. It’s not the prettiest method right off the bat, you’ll definitely need to do some sanding afterward to smooth things out, but it makes a strong connection.
Here’s a quick rundown of what you need to know:
- Tools: A soldering iron (a wood burner works too) and some extra filament. A flat tip on the iron is best for smoothing.
- Process: Secure your parts first, maybe with tape or even a bit of hot glue. Then, carefully melt the plastic along the seam, adding filament as needed. Keep pressing the pieces together until the bond sets.
- Finishing: Expect to sand down any rough spots or excess melted plastic once it cools.
- Safety: This is important. Melting plastic releases fumes, so make sure you’re in a well-ventilated area. Don’t skip this step, especially if you’re sensitive to smells. You might also want to wear eye protection.
While it’s not ideal for super detailed prints where you need a pristine finish right away, this method is great for creating robust bonds on larger parts or functional pieces. It’s a pretty straightforward way to join things, and once you get the hang of it, you can make some really solid connections. If you’re looking for a strong join and don’t mind a little post-processing, this is a solid option. For more on joining techniques, check out this guide on multi-purpose adhesive glue.
Wrapping It Up
So, there you have it. Picking the right glue for your 3D prints really does make a difference. For most of your everyday projects, a good super glue gel is probably your best bet. It’s fast, easy to use, and holds things together pretty well. But if you’re building something that needs to be super tough, like a part that’s going to get bumped around or used a lot, you’ll want to step up to a two-part epoxy. Just remember to prep your surfaces right and give the glue enough time to fully set. Do that, and your 3D printed creations will be strong and look great.
